Make your own free website on


Healthy Foods! Happy Dogs!



By Pat McKay





Chapter One - What Are The Benefits

Chapter Two – Cook & Bone Are Four-Letter Words

Chapter Three – Foods Labeled For Animals

Chapter Four – What To Feed

Chapter Five – Basic Recipe

Chapter Six – Proteins

Chapter Seven – Vegetables

Chapter Eight - Grains

Chapter Nine – Puppies

Chapter Ten – The Calcium Controversy

Chapter Eleven - Water, Water Everywhere, Not a Drop to Drink

Chapter Twelve - How Much To Feed

Chapter Thirteen – Problems & Solutions

Pat McKay Biography



Dogs for the past 80 to 100 years have been eating dead, rotten, devitalized foods from rendering plants…junk food in pretty cans and bags.

About 20 to 30 years ago it started to become fashionable to feed the BARF/RMB diet…feeding raw bones.

Between the two diets, I don’t know which is worse. Certainly neither of them is a nutritionally balanced food program.

Then to add insult to injury, when dogs get sick on these diets, veterinarians give drugs, chemicals and poisons to “cure” their ailments which were caused by the improper food in the first place. Quite a vicious circle. Antibiotics, steroids, vaccines, frontline, advantix, program, heartguard, antihistamines, flea dips, deworming poisons and synthetic drugs which not only don’t cure…they cause more harm, illness and disease.

Presently 4 out of 5 dogs have cancer! Is that not shocking enough for you to take a look at what is happening to our companion animals?

Food in cans and bags don’t provide nutrition…it’s junk food. Raw bones are not the answer. Dogs need real, live, raw meat and vegetables…a food program that is complete and balanced with organic supplements.

Here is the answer…



A complete and balanced meal is:

75% raw ground and/or chunk meat

25% finely ground raw or steamed vegetables and


That’s all you will need.

If your dog is ill or already has problems, s/he will need to be on the same basic raw food program with additional organic supplements…and s/he may need homeopathic care as well.




Chapter One


What A Proper Raw Food Program Will Do for You

*Reduce or eliminate expensive visits to the veterinarian’s office.

*Peace of mind that your beloved companions are getting the very best of care and will soon gain and maintain excellent health and well-being.


What A Proper Raw Food Program

Will Do for Your Dog

* Clear eyes

* Healthy, shiny coat

* Healthy skin

* Clean teeth

* Eliminates fleas

* Eliminate bad breath

* Eliminate body odor

* Less volume and smell of stools

* Increased energy—good, healthy energy

* Hyper and/or aggressive dogs become calm

* Increased endurance

* Increased alertness, attention

* Enhance overall health and well-being

* Rejuvenate organs and immune system

* Increased coat growth

* Increased confidence

* Extreme reduction of: * allergies * underweight * overweight * parasites * temperament problems * phobic behaviors * hip/joint problems * arthritis * ear/eye ailments * kidney/bladder dysfunction * incontinence * irritable bowel syndrome * constipation * diarrhea * indigestion * pancreatitis * dermatitis, to mention a few.



Chapter Two



Dogs were designed by Mother Nature to eat all meat RAW. In the wild canines eat mice, birds, lizards and other prey animals raw…no one is cooking in the wild.

The prey is raw, fresh and alive. The bones are still soft, supple, hydrated and full of nutrients. Our own domestic dogs must eat live food just as they do in the wild to be at their optimum health.

Choices for our dogs include beef, chicken, lamb, turkey, eggs, venison, buffalo, emu, ostrich, elk or whatever is available in your area.

The reason you cannot feed the bones of these farm animals is because they are not fresh kill. They have been dead for days, weeks or months. Rigor mortis sets in right after death and the bones become hard, brittle, dehydrated; the nutrients are dead and gone. What is left is a gritty substance that causes severe pancreatitis, leaky-gut, irritable bowel, impacted bowel, chalky and bloody stools, diarrhea, constipation, all of which are devastating to the gastrointestinal system.

Yes, you may occasionally give some dogs bones for dessert; however, people often take things to the extreme, give them as a meal and give them too often.

After what I have seen in the past several years, I am now opposed to feeding bone…ground or whole…except an occasional bone for dessert to chew for pleasure. And even that needs to be evaluated depending on the individual dog; how voraciously s/he goes after the bone; whether that particular dog can digest it, and what it looks like when it comes out the other end.

If there are any digestive problems, do not give bones. If there are any chalky or bloody stools, diarrhea or constipation, do not give bones.


A complete and balanced meal is:

75% raw ground and/or chunk meat

25% finely ground raw or steamed vegetables and


Dogs Are Carnivores

The three main ways we know dogs are carnivores has to do with their teeth, their small intestines and their acidic digestive system.

1) Their teeth are sharp for ripping and tearing, not masticating.

2) The small intestines are short to enable the meat to go through the system quickly before it putrefies.

3) Their pH must be kept on the acidic end of the spectrum in order for a carnivore to be healthy.


The Key to Health Is Live Food

Raw, live foods have enzymes, little protein molecules, which are essential for digesting food, for stimulating the brain, for providing cellular energy, for repairing all tissues, organs and cells, and functions so diverse that it is impossible to name them all. Animals and people cannot exist without enzymes. Supplemental enzymes can be very helpful, but they do not make up for natural enzymes in RAW food.

Why Is Raw So Important?

Cooked food is dead. Everything in a can or a bag is cooked. All processed foods for people or animals have been cooked, sterilized or pasteurized, which means all the enzymes and friendly bacteria that are needed to digest, absorb, assimilate and utilize food are destroyed. “We are what we eat” is not exactly correct.

We are what we utilize!


The Only Way To Be Disease Free

Live food is essential for health. It is the ultimate source of life. There is no other way to be disease free. No matter who tells you that a certain brand of commercial pet food, home-cooked food, or an imbalanced diet is healthy for your dog, it is not. Commercial foods and home-cooked foods are dead – no enzymes, no friendly bacteria. Raw meaty bones cause harm and are not a balanced diet. Animal nutritionists, pet store owners, store clerks, veterinarians, authors of nutrition books, or anyone else suggesting these options must not be familiar with what carnivores need for optimum health. If they were, they would not be prescribing, suggesting, and/or selling cooked foods or improperly balanced diets for dogs.



BARF and RMB foods are not balanced; they are not complete; and they are harmful because dogs cannot tolerate that much dead, brittle, dehydrated bone that no longer has any nutrients. It is not the same as the whole, fresh-kill prey that the canine in the wild kills and eats.

The meat from the prey in the wild is raw, fresh, and alive. The bones are still soft, supple, hydrated, and full of nutrients. That is not the case with the bones from the meat market that have been dead for days, weeks, and months.

In addition there is not a balance of carbohydrates and organic supplements that are necessary for a complete and balanced food program.


Chapter Three


What Is In The Can or Bag???

The list of raw and cooked materials that go into commercial pet food is horrendous: decayed animals from slaughterhouses classified as 4-D (dead, diseased, dying and disabled); animals filled with antibiotics, steroids, hormones, drugs, radiation, formaldehyde, charcoal; road-kill; dead and diseased animals from zoos; dogs, cats, and other companion animals that died or were euthanized at veterinary clinics; including sweaters, blankets, plastic body bags, decorative collars, flea collars, ID tags or anything else that was on the body; spoiled meat from meat markets, including the plastic wrap; rancid grease and spoiled food from restaurants; donuts/breads from bakeries; hair, feathers, egg shells, hooves, stomach, bowels, feces, cancerous tissues and organs; all of these animals full of bacteria, viruses, fungi, worms, and parasites.

In addition there is “black paint” which is a term used in the meat industry to cover any number of chemicals from carbolic acid to fuel oil. All left-over meat, poultry, bones, and offal from production of food for human consumption is put into barrels with “black paint” added to every layer to indicate that this food is not for human consumption. This is the basis of the meat that most pet food companies use.


Bone Meal and Meat Meal

All of this material is ground up and cooked for approximately an hour at 250 degrees. The fat separates during the process and is removed. Actually there exists a videotape of a show narrated by Martin Sheen that shows the processing at a rendering plant. It is stated in this program that these fats are not only used for animal food, but for people foods and cosmetics. The left-over, after the fats are removed, is then pressed to remove all moisture and crushed into what is called bone meal and meat meal.


Truth? In Labeling

If the label says chicken meal, for instance, that means that there are more chicken products in this batch than any other one ingredient. However, if there are nineteen other ingredients in this batch, then there has to be only 6 percent chicken products, including feathers, offal, feces, etc, to qualify to call it chicken meal.


No Nutrients

Plenty of Preservatives

The manufacturing process destroys whatever minimal nutritional content there might have been. Then the commercial pet food companies put in sodium benzoate, sodium nitrite, BHA, BHT, MSG, red dye #40, blue dye #2, propylene glycol, formalin, ethoxyquin or other potential carcinogenic additives, not to mention the rancid grease, salt and sugar.


Sodium Benzoate

One of the most commonly used preservatives right now that is highly touted as being okay and seen even in “health foods” is benzoic acid or its salt form, sodium benzoate. These can affect the nervous system, cause allergic reactions, asthma attacks, stomach irritations and hyperactivity.


Approved by the FDA and AAFCO

All of the above-mentioned preservatives and many more are all approved by the United States Food and Drug Administration. The FDA claims no one has proved that any of these ingredients cause health problems in people or animals.

However, studies show that all of these preservatives may cause cancer, epilepsy, birth defects, metabolic stress, severe allergic reactions, brain defects, liver and kidney ailments and behavior problems.

AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials, is the FDA of our domesticated animals, and just as the FDA doesn’t protect people, the AAFCO doesn’t protect our animals.


Who’s Looking Out for

Our Animals and Our Children?

No one is looking out for your animal’s nutrition anymore than they are looking out for our children’s. Cold breakfast cereals, hot dogs, canned spaghetti, etc, are not nourishing foods for children. Commercial food companies are out to please your pallet and their wallet with lots of sugar and salt and tempt the appetite with pretty, colorful labels to catch your eye. The bottom line for the majority of commercial food companies is profit, not healthy foods for your animals or your children.



Chapter Four


Eating What Mother Nature Intended

Canines in the wild eat mice, birds, deer, reptiles, insects, to name a few. These animals are not that easily available nor are some of them culturally acceptable for human consumption. Our cultures does, however, accept eating beef, lamb, chicken, turkey, and fish, (unless you hunt buffalo, venison, duck, and a few others, they are usually too expensive) so we will discuss what is culturally acceptable, even though my preference is to feed what Mother Nature intended.


Naturally raised meats, poultry, and fish and organic vegetables are preferred, of course. If not naturally grown, you have to find the best you can. What is important is that it is fresh or fresh-frozen and labeled for human consumption…not labeled for animals. You must read the label of any frozen meats or vegetables to be sure they haven’t added any seasonings.  Another caution is to watch for labels saying the meat is mechanically extracted; they may claim it is fit for human consumption, but most often they will add seasonings to hide the stench of the poor quality meat.



Of course it is better to feed meat and poultry that does not contain antibiotics, hormones and steroids; however, if you cannot find naturally grown meats, then go to the busiest market and at least you will be getting fresh meat.


Feed Only Foods Fit

For Human Consumption

The key words here are human consumption. Most foods that are labeled for animals are not fit to eat. Why would anyone feed their animals anything less than they would eat themselves?


Poultry and Salmonella

Because dogs are carnivores and raw meat is their natural food, their digestive juices take care of salmonella, Escherichia coli and other unfriendly bacteria that cause food poisoning. Many veterinarians oppose the feeding of raw meat and tend to unjustly blame salmonella, E coli and parasites when actually the problems come from a weakened digestive system and/or an autoimmune condition caused by feeding cooked foods and/or raw bones. Enlightened veterinary practitioners realize this and encourage their clients to feed raw meat, raw vegetables and organic supplements.

In 30 years of working professionally with people and their dogs, I have never heard of a case of salmonella or E coli from raw food fit for human consumption. I have heard of salmonella from dogs eating cooked food. The worst salmonella problem in the country in 1998 was several thousand pounds of cooked baby cereal that was contaminated and had to be recalled. So don’t think because you are cooking the food you are necessarily killing the unfriendly bacteria.



Chapter Five


75% Raw Meat 25% Raw Vegetables

My basic recipe is 75 percent raw meat, poultry, or fish, and 25 percent finely ground raw or steamed/mashed vegetables. The recommended breakdown of the meat and vegetables is 35 percent muscle meat, 20 percent organ meat, 20 percent fat and 25 percent vegetable.

If you feed more meat one day and less vegetables because that is what you have on hand, don’t worry. The body remembers. The above percentages are a guideline to what carnivores need. Don’t be a purist and feel you have to give the exact proportions every day. As people we don’t do that for ourselves, so don’t go overboard for your dogs either.

Variety is Vital

What is important is that you feed a variety of foods. Each meat and each vegetable has their own set of specific nutrients, so variety is vital. Do not feed the same food more than two days in a row. Rotate the meats and the vegetables daily just as you would for yourself.


Ready-To-Eat Meals

If you live in the greater Los Angeles area, the Pat McKay raw food meals, marked PMK, are available from Harmony Farms in La Crescenta.  Jan Naud at the Urban Dog in West Los Angeles also carries ready-to-eat meals, as well as raw meat treats, and the ESSENTIALS4ALL BIO-8-POWDER & CLO-3-PEARLS.


All raw pet food companies are producing foods that contain either ground bone, fruit, grain, or other ingredients that are not acceptable for dogs.  So be sure to check the labels.  Only Pat McKay (PMK) raw food meals are 75% raw meat and 25% finely ground raw vegetables.  This particular recipe was designed for all dogs with any illness or chronic condition, and this same recipe is completely balanced for all puppies, adult dogs, and the elderly, even though they may not have any illness.


The key to nutrition for healthy, happy dogs is:

75% raw ground and chunk meat

25% finely ground raw or steamed vegetables and



Do-It-Yourself Meals


Preparing the food yourself should take approximately 10 minutes a day and/or you can prepare several meals at a time and freeze them.

Preparation of 1 cup of food: 6 ounces (3/4 cup) of raw ground meat and 2 ounces (1/4 cup) of raw ground vegetables.

Preparation of 4 cups of food: 3 cups of raw ground meat and 1 cup of raw ground vegetables.

Preparation of 8 cups of food: 6 cups of raw ground meat and 2 cups of raw ground vegetables.


The ratio is  3 meat to 1 vegetables.


Buy the least expensive meat because that will be higher in fat content. Use dark meat and all the skin from chicken and turkey, because that’s where the highest fat and nutrient content is.


The key to nutrition for healthy, happy dogs is:

75% raw ground and chunk meat

25% finely ground raw or steamed vegetables and



The recommended breakdown for the 75/25 meal is 35% muscle meat, 20% organ meat, 20% fat, and 25% vegetable. This is the breakdown after the meat and vegetables are mixed. You should start with the highest fat content in the meat that you can buy.  That is usually 22 to 28%.


These percentages are a guideline to what carnivores need. Just as you don’t eat exact percentages of meat and carbohydrates each day, your dog doesn’t have to either.




Chapter Six


Meats, Poultry, Fish & Eggs

Proteins that are best for dogs are beef, lamb, chicken, turkey, organ meats (liver, heart, kidney, spleen and gizzards), egg yolks, and wild fish. Probably the only fish that is safe anymore is wild fish fit for human consumption.  We are working with an excellent fish company right now to provide the best fish possible. Email me for further information about this company and when and where their fish products will be available.



Questionable Proteins

Other proteins, which are sometimes questionable because of pollutants, diseases or indigestibility, are pork, rabbit, fish and many dairy products.


The Best

First let’s talk about the ones that are the best. Farm animals naturally range-fed provide the very best quality of meats. Next would be the meats that are found in meat markets and supermarkets.

I would like to say that organic meats are the best, but there are too many companies out there saying their meats are organically raised that must not be, because we’ve had too many reports of animals not doing well on what are referred to as organic meats. So I can only believe that they really aren’t organically raised or perhaps they are grain fed just before slaughter.

To find meats that are chemically free—no steroids or hormones—presents a challenge. Your health food store or independent meat market is the best source. They will either carry chemically free meats or maybe they can tell you where you can find them. (If you are a meat eater, this same information is vitally important to your own health as well.)

However, I repeat: If you do not have access to or cannot afford naturally grown meats, feed your dog whatever raw meat you can find provided it is for human consumption. If it is okay for you to eat; it is okay for your dog.

If you live in the greater Los Angeles area, the Pat McKay (PMK) raw food meals are available from Harmony Farms in La Crescenta 818-248-3068. Jan Naud at the Urban Dog in West Los Angeles has ready-to-eat raw meals for dogs as well as the ESSENTIALS4ALL BIO-8-POWDER & CLO-3-PEARLS.


Antibiotics, Hormones & Steroids

Many of you may not even be aware that the farm animals in this country are fed and injected with growth hormones, steroids, antibiotics, vaccines and preservatives during their lifetime. All of these chemicals and drugs are supposed to make the farm animals grow unnaturally large, do so quickly, and make the meat tender.

Our health pays a high price for this “tender” meat, because each one of these chemicals has side effects on both the farm animals and the one who eats the farm animal.


Pork should not be fed to domestic animals because of the possibility of trichinosis, an organism which to be destroyed requires cooking. Because only raw meat can be properly assimilated by carnivores, pork would not be a good choice. It is also the most difficult meat to digest.



Fish is an excellent source of protein, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals. But…are our fish healthy and edible anymore? Therein lies the question. First of all, there is a strong possibility that much of our fish is polluted with heavy metals, such as mercury and cadmium. Secondly, fish should not remain at room temperature for longer than an hour. Thirdly, you must be very knowledgeable about the condition, color and odor of fish to know that it is fresh and free of disease.

I repeat:  We are working with an excellent fish company right now to provide the best fish possible. Email me for further information about this company and when and where their fish products will be available.


Dairy Products

The dairy industry has destroyed itself with all the growth hormones, antibiotics, sterilization and pasteurization.

The only two dairy products that I believe should be fed are colostrum and butter. Colostrum is actually a food that the mother produces before the milk comes in and butter is fat; neither of them have lactose which is the real culprit that causes allergies for most animals.


Raw Butter

Raw butter is an excellent source of vitamins A and D and fatty acids. It is best if it is not pasteurized; however, it’s almost impossible to find raw butter, so you may have to settle for pasteurized. 

My suggestion is to give your cat a tiny bit of butter at the same time you give the ESSENTIALS4ALL CLO-3-PEARLS; the butter enhances the effectiveness of the cod liver oil.


Eggs are a great source of complete protein and are easily digested. They contain all the essential amino acids and the following nutrients: vitamins A, B2, D3 and E, niacin, biotin, copper, iron, sulfur, phosphorus and unsaturated fatty acids. The egg yolk is the richest known source of choline, which is necessary for emulsifying or dispersing cholesterol throughout the system.


Egg Yolks Raw---Whites Cooked

Egg yolks should be fed raw. If you feed the whole egg, including the white, it is best to poach or soft boil the eggs for one minute…or less…just enough to turn the clear part of the egg to white. This kills any questionable enzymes that might cause a loss of biotin in the system. This is not critical if you feed an occasional egg now and then. But if you are feeding several eggs at one time, it is best to cook the white.

Another suggestion is to put the whole egg (still in the shell) in hot water and let it soak for five minutes to destroy the avidin which is the protein that interferes with the absorption of biotin.

Do not feed eggs in the shell or egg shells unless: the eggs are organic, then you can bake the shells for 30 minutes at 200 degrees, and then crush them to a very fine powder. When animals eat eggs or eggshells in the wild, the shell is still very fresh and soft. After the egg is a few hours old or has been cooked, the shell hardens. The edges of the broken shell become very sharp, which can cause internal bleeding, so the shell must be crushed to a fine powder.  The yolk of hard-boiled eggs are very difficult to digest for dogs. It is best to feed soft-boiled.


Quality of Eggs

The main concern with eggs is their quality and freshness. Organic is best. If not, make sure they come from healthy, free-range-fed chickens that have not been fed antibiotics, hormones, or other drugs. Of course, it goes without saying that chickens who are caged and mutilated by having their beaks and nails cut are so stressed that they cannot be healthy or produce quality eggs.


Organic, Cage Free, Fertile

Organic eggs are much higher in nutritional value than regular commercial eggs. If the eggs are fertile as well, they will contain beneficial growth hormones, as well as they will lower cholesterol.

Keep eggs in a covered container because they will stay fresh longer. Try to use the eggs within one week of purchase.


How Many to Feed

One to eight eggs at a meal, depending on the size of your dog is about right. For tiny dogs, one egg per meal will be sufficient. For small dogs that weight from 10 to 20 pounds, two eggs; dogs from 20 to 35 pounds, three eggs; 35 to 50 pounds, four eggs; 50 to 65 pounds, five eggs; 65-80 pounds six eggs; 80 to 100 pounds, seven eggs; 100 pounds and over, eight eggs.



If you are traveling with your dog, eggs are one of the easiest fresh proteins to find. Eggs make a very economical meal.


One Protein at a Time

It is best to feed one protein at a time, because each protein has its own special set of enzymes. Feeding several proteins at one meal makes it difficult for the digestive system. For instance, if you have some chicken left over from yesterday and today you are feeding beef, let your dog finish the chicken first, and then give him/her the beef meal.


What I am saying is don’t purposely mix any two proteins together; however, eating one protein and then eating another right after that is okay…just don’t mix them. And you certainly don’t want to waste food and throw out the chicken just because there isn’t enough for one meal.



If dogs are eating raw meat, they very seldom have cholesterol problems; it is cooked meat that causes cholesterol problems for carnivores. If your dog is having a cholesterol problem, it is either because s/he is eating cooked proteins or grains, or because the liver, which regulates cholesterol, is not currently functioning properly.



Chapter Seven


Vegetables Work Synergistically

The opposite is true of vegetables. They work synergistically; the greater the variety, the more effective they are. My suggestion for the top vegetables are in this order of preference: broccoli, zucchini and all types of squash, kale, chard, Chinese cabbage, Romaine lettuce, celery, and pumpkin. Other vegetables can be used if your animals like their taste; there are others that are very beneficial, but might be more expensive or seasonal, such as asparagus.

Raw vegetables must be processed into very tiny pieces, the size of sand, salt and/or add water during the blending so the vegetables are the consistency of baby food. Carnivores don’t digest vegetables as easily as they do meat, so make it as easy as possible for them to digest and utilize the vegetables.

In nature, dogs would get predigested vegetation in the gastrointestinal system of their prey. That is why we must provide raw ground vegetables, as well as raw meat, to have a properly balanced program.

Steamed or baked vegetables can be used instead of raw if you choose they are just as beneficial even when cooked, and vegetables are not the main source of a carnivore’s diet. It is the meat that is so important to be kept in its raw form. So if you have steamed/baked vegetables left over from your own meals, be sure to put them to good use and give them to your dogs. Canned pumpkin is an occasional option; just be sure it is 100% pure pumpkin.


Vegetable Exceptions

Vegetables that are not recommended are ones from the nightshade family: white potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, which can cause inflammation. Iceberg lettuce, cucumbers, spinach, onions and fresh garlic are all difficult to digest, and for other various reasons are best not to be given.



Chapter Eight


No Grains

Each enzyme has a specific duty. For example, an enzyme capable of breaking down fats cannot break down vegetables. Dogs, because they are carnivores, make very little amylase, the enzyme needed to break down grains, which leads to the belief that grains are not a necessary part of a carnivore’s diet.

Carnivores cannot maintain long-term production of the quantity of amylase enzyme necessary to properly digest and utilize grains. As a result, the immune system becomes irritated and weakened by the invasion of foreign, non-nutritive protein and carbohydrate particles. Grains, as well as cooked food, are probably the greatest cause of pancreatitis, irritable bowel syndrome, impacted anal glands, overweight, plaque buildup on teeth, allergies, skin disorders, yeast infections and other chronic immune problems.

In the wild, canines do eat the offal (digested food in the stomach, small intestines and bowels) of their prey; however, cooked grains cannot compare to predigested grains, so there is no way that predigested grains can be provided domestically.


Grains Are Not

Part of Their Natural Diet

Grains, such as oats, wheat, rice, barley, etc, are composed mostly of complex carbohydrates. They are not part of a dog’s natural diet. In the true natural setting, grains hardly exist at all. Even a mouse or other prey animal is not going to find much of its nutrition from grains. Herbivores eat vegetation: plants, seedlings, leaves, grasses, fruits, blossoms, flowers, etc.

Therefore, the argument that dogs eat animals that have grains in their digestive tracts doesn’t hold up to scrutiny.


The Four Clues

Other clues that tell us grains are not necessary for carnivores are:


1) Dogs do not have a dietary requirement for complex carbohydrates

2) Dogs produce very little amylase which is the enzyme necessary to digest grains

3) Grains must be cooked or sprouted and thoroughly chewed to be digested, and carnivores do not chew much at all

4) Nutrients found in grains are readily available from other dietary ingredients such as organ meats and vegetables.




Chapter Nine


No Commercial Puppy Milks

Do not feed commercial puppy milk that you buy in the pet food store! One of my client’s came to me because while she was feeding a commercial puppy milk and some of it dripped onto another puppy’s coat. She didn’t think anything of it until a few minutes later when she went to wipe it off. The “milk” had dried like cement and was stuck to the coat. She tried to soften it with water and couldn’t; she then tried to pull it off and the hair came with it, leaving a bald spot. So obviously there are other ingredients in these products other than food. Even if you read the label it cannot be truthful, because what food would take off the hair? And what food would be the consistency of cement?


Raw Goat’s Milk for Puppies

Raw goat’s milk is the best puppy milk if the mother is not able to provide enough milk or if you have an orphan. Powdered goat’s milk would be my second choice. One of the reasons goat’s milk is so beneficial for puppies is because it is higher in fat than cow’s milk, and it comes out of the goat already homogenized (the fat is emulsified in the milk) and puppies need that fat.


Mother’s Milk

Puppies should always nurse until mom finally gives them the boot and says enough is enough. She will do the weaning just fine.

Mother’s milk of each species is totally different from one another. There is no resemblance between the mother’s milk of canines, felines, bovines and humans.


Puppy Formula

However, if for some unfortunate reason you have to bottle-feed puppies, my suggested formula is:

1 cup raw goat’s milk (powdered goat’s milk, or if you have to use cow’s milk, use half raw milk and half raw cream)

2 egg yolks (yellow only, not egg whites)

1 tablespoon of 100% Pure Colostrum

1 tablespoon of raw honey or molasses

Mix well. Feed with bottle or syringe

Depending on the age of the puppy, you will have to offer this puppy milk mixture every 2 to 4 hours. Yes, that means all night long as well. You will quickly understand the amount of work and long hours that a momma dog puts in. Always do whatever you can to keep mom healthy and nursing. Feeding a puppy by bottle is the last resort.


Must Massage the Underbelly

You will have to massage the underbelly of the puppy after each meal to help with digestion and elimination. When mom is doing all her licking and nudging she is stimulating the system. You will need to simulate that process.


Honey or Molasses

The puppy should have several bowel movements a day, about one for every meal. If s/he isn’t going often enough you may have to add additional raw, unheated honey or unrefined molasses to the puppy milk mixture.

The key to nutrition for healthy, happy

weaning puppies is:

75% raw ground and chunk meat

25% finely ground raw or steamed vegetables and



Somewhere between 3 to 5 weeks the puppy, will be ready to eat a little raw meat and raw or steamed veggies. At that time put the raw food in a blender with a little purified water, blend well to the consistency of baby food, offer the mixture to the puppy and see if s/he is interested. If so, give one meal a day of meat and vegetables and the rest of the meals should be the puppy milk mixture. Slowly increase the amount of raw meat and veggies and decrease the milk. By 8 to 10 weeks your puppy should be off the above puppy formula.

Puppies should be fed on demand. If they are nursing, mother will encourage them to eat from her plate. At that time put mother’s food in a blender as in the above paragraph and they will usually wean themselves onto the raw food on their own by starting to eat out of their mom’s plate whenever they feel like it…or whenever mom encourages them. Here again, some puppies may have a few nibbles at two weeks; some will eat full meals at three weeks; others may not start for another week or two. Whenever they are ready, they and their mothers will know when it is time.

After they are completely weaned, puppies will let you know how many times a day they want to eat. Healthy puppies are usually very vocal when they are hungry. Puppies should be fed on demand. They get to eat all they want to eat as often as they want from two to six times a day. Remember, in the first year of a puppy’s life, s/he grows as much as a person grows in 15 years. Do not hold back on the amount of food or supplements during the first year as is often suggested by veterinarians. I have no idea how this myth concerning deprivation got started, but it is a fallacy.

The general rule for feeding healthy puppies the raw food program is:

5 weeks to 8 weeks, 6 times a day

8 weeks to 12 weeks, 4 times a day

12 weeks to 20 weeks, 3 times a day

5 months to 8 months, 2 times a day

Sometime during that 5 to 8 month period, on his/her own, the puppy will begin to lose interest in the second meal, and eat just one meal a day. When feeding raw food, you will notice that they will not have to eat as often.

The key to nutrition for healthy, happy puppies is:

75% raw ground and/or chunk meat

25% raw ground or steamed vegetables and




Chapter Ten


Most Dogs Have A Calcium Deficiency

Most dogs that I see have a calcium deficiency. Calcium is the most abundant mineral in the body. Dogs who are eating canned and dried foods, even home-prepared food, are often not getting sufficient calcium, not even enough to meet the minimum requirements.

By the time you see symptoms of a calcium deficiency, your dog has often been calcium deficient for months or years. That is why it is so important that every one who has their animal on a raw food program be sure their animal is getting sufficient calcium.

Many people are now feeding BARF, Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones And Raw Food and/or RMB, Raw Meaty Bones. Claims are made that no other calcium should be given, just bones. Raw whole or ground bones create a whole set of problems for the gastrointestinal system. (Please re-read Chapter Two: Cook and Bone are Four-Letter Words)


Signs of Calcium Deficiency

Some of the signs of calcium deficiency are arthritis; skin and coat problems; splayed feet; broken and/or bent pasterns; hip dysplasia; weak, easily injured ligaments and tendons; broken bones; patella luxation, severe pain, most often in feet, legs, hips, and heart; digestive ailments; hyperactivity; aggression; lethargy; constipation; diarrhea; incontinence; kidney, bladder, liver and heart problems. Because veterinarians don’t understand healing through nutrition, the only procedures they can come up with are drugs, casts and surgery. None of this would be necessary if your vet talked to you about nutrition the first time you came into the office. If you have a growing puppy or an adult dog with signs of a calcium deficiency, then s/he should be given additional calcium, magnesium, and MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane), an organic sulphur.


The key to nutrition for healthy, happy dogs is:

75% raw ground or chunk meat

25% raw ground or steamed vegetables and



The Most Abundant Mineral

Calcium is the most abundant mineral in the body. The majority of calcium in the body is utilized by the bones and teeth; however, it is also involved in the blood-clotting process, in nerve and muscle stimulation, parathyroid hormone functions and the metabolism of vitamin D. To function properly along with the high phosphorus content in meat, calcium must be accompanied by magnesium, boron, copper, molybdenum, potassium, sulfur, zinc and vitamins A, B6, D and E.


Magnesium Is Essential

Magnesium is an essential mineral that must be present in a calcium formula for the body to properly absorb the calcium. In addition, it plays an important role in utilizing vitamins B, C and E. Studies point out that the balance between calcium and magnesium is especially important. The consensus now is that magnesium should be two-thirds of the amount of calcium in any formula.


Little Known Boron

We don’t hear enough about boron. It is needed for the metabolism of calcium, phosphorus and magnesium. It also enhances brain function and promotes alertness. Older dogs are often boron deficient.


Copper for Canines

Copper is of particular importance to dogs. They need more than people. Copper is essential for the formation of collagen and connective tissue, which relates directly to hip dysplasia. Copper is also very important for hair growth and healthy skin.


Potassium for Normal Growth

Potassium works with sodium (yes, sodium is necessary) and calcium to control the body’s water balance. It is essential for a healthy nervous system, normalizes the heartbeat, nourishes the muscular system and unites with phosphorus (which is in the raw meat) to send oxygen to the brain. Sometimes just the lack of raw meat can be the cause of seizures.

As always, we could go on and on about the necessity of vitamins and minerals and the roles they play for ourselves and our dogs.


Balanced Meals

From veterinarians and from authors of articles you hear about home-prepared meals for animals not being balanced. More often than not, that is true; not because people don’t want to balance their dogs’ meals, but because even the professionals who warn you that the meals are not balanced, don’t take the time to tell you what IS balanced. In most cases that’s because they either don’t know or they are selling a commercial pet food that they want you to buy from them, and they want you to believe that preparing your own is too complicated.


Not Complicated

There’s nothing complicated about knowing that dogs need raw meat and that meat is high in phosphorus, so you must balance it with an organic calcium plus the necessary nutrients for the body to utilize the calcium.


Wild vs Domestic

In the wild, carnivores eat their entire prey: flesh, bones, blood, entrails, organs, glands, digested and undigested food in the stomach and intestines, hair, head, feet and tail. The only parts they do not digest and utilize are teeth and nails. To provide a comparable meal domestically is impossible, but we can come close to Mother Nature’s design with a balance of all raw muscle meat, organs, fat, vegetables and a basic calcium/magnesium supplement. Calcium/magnesium must be supplemented in a domestic diet unless you are feeding live mice, birds and lizards and other live prey.

The key to nutrition for healthy, happy dogs is:

75% raw ground and chunk meat

25% finely ground raw or steamed vegetables and




Bones Are For Dessert…

And Only If Your Dog Can Digest Them!!!

Which Bones To Feed?

Beef and lamb marrow bones, knucklebones, and rib bones.

The important point is that you have to observe your dog’s next couple of bowel movements to see whether they can really digest bone. If the stools are bloody, if there is any discomfort, gas, vomiting, bloating, if there are any shards of bone in the stool, if your dog is constipated after eating bones, then do NOT feed bones.

Marrow bones, the ones with the hole in the middle of the bone, can be a hazard to small dogs, puppies, and even large dogs with slender lower jaws like Collies and Borzois.  They can get their lower jaw inside the hole while enthusiastically digging out the marrow, then get their canines caught on the other side of the bone.  My suggestion is that all marrow bones be at least 3-4 inches in length so there is no way this can happen.


Which Bones NOT To Feed at All?

Do not feed chicken or turkey wings, necks, backs, legs and thighs. These are long bones that can splinter causing them to be sharp with the possibility of puncturing the intestinal system. Some tiny dogs will just pick the meat off of the necks and backs of chicken or turkey bones; however, if they eat the bones, I would not give them any chicken or turkey bones at all.



Digesting Bones

Be aware after your dog has eaten to note whether there appears to be any discomfort, gas, vomiting, anything that would indicate that s/he cannot digest and utilize the bone.

You must check your dog’s stool after eating bones and see if there is any blood, chalkiness, diarrhea, constipation, undigested bone, sharp shards or anything that would indicate they cannot handle eating bones.


All Bones Must Be Fed Raw

If you feel your dog can eat or chew on a bone after a meal, then be sure to only give raw bones. Cooking bones can cause serious problems because the bones become even more brittle, chip off, possibly puncturing the esophagus, stomach or intestines, which can cause internal bleeding and infection; constipation, rectal bleeding and blockages in the gastrointestinal system.



Too Much Calcium Can Cause Deposits

Too much of the WRONG calcium can cause deposits. Calcium must be from a food source or an organic source with the proper vitamins and minerals necessary to digest, absorb, assimilate, and utilize the calcium. The body must be able to digest it just as it does food. When professionals warn dog guardians about feeding too much calcium, they are referring to traditional calcium like ground bone or bone meal.


Dissolve Present Deposits

Keeping the pH balance in the acidic range will help dissolve deposits. Raw meat is beneficial is essential for proper pH balance.


Calcium from Other Food Sources

Asparagus, broccoli, any leafy greens are vegetables high in calcium. Sardines also provides a rich natural calcium. My belief is you will still have to add a basic calcium and magnesium supplement. Cod liver oil will provide vitamins D, E, and K which are necessary for the absorption of calcium and magnesium. Boron and other trace minerals that are also needed are supplied by the vegetables. For puppies, especially large, fast-growing puppies, ones with panosteitis (growing pains in front legs) or for dogs who are not assimilating and utilizing their calcium, my suggestion is to consult a classical homeopathic practitioner for  remedies that will restore the body's ability to absorb the necessary nutriments.

The key to nutrition for healthy, happy dogs is:

75% raw ground and/or chunk meat

25% raw ground or steamed vegetables and




I don’t like dairy sources of calcium mostly because we have ruined our dairy industry with all the antibiotics, hormones, pasteurization and sterilization; however, your dog's system will let you know if it can tolerate our present day dairy products.  If you can find raw, organic dairy products, some dogs can tolerate raw dairy.

Signs that your dog cannot tolerate dairy are mucus, indigestion, allergies, diarrhea, yeast infections, to name a few.


Why All the Fuss About Calcium

Calcium is the most abundant mineral in the body, vital to the formation of strong bones and teeth and for the maintenance of healthy gums. It is also important to the health of the heart. Almost everyone I talk to says their dog has some form of heart problem, often heart murmurs. Lack of digestible calcium is one of the main culprits.

Lowers Cholesterol

Calcium is also important in the transmission of nerve impulses; it lowers cholesterol levels; is needed for muscular growth, contraction and prevention of muscle cramps. It is also involved in the activation of enzymes, including lipase, necessary to break down fats for utilization by the body; thus, tied in with skin, coat and flea problems. How many dogs (and people) do you know with those problems!

Arthritis and Hip Dysplasia

Calcium deficiency can lead to the following additional problems: aching joints, arthritis, brittle or soft nails, eczema, hip dysplasia, hyperactivity, hypertension, panosteitis (growing pains, usually in the front legs) seizures (also magnesium deficiency which goes along with calcium) and tooth decay.

Teeth and Bones

Calcium protects the bones and teeth from lead by inhibiting absorption of this toxic metal. If there is a calcium deficiency, lead can be absorbed by the body and deposited in the teeth and bones.

The solution to the lack of Calcium and other

essential vitamins & minerals is:



Chapter Eleven



Purified Water

If you live in an area where you know the water is safe that’s great. Otherwise providing yourself and your animals with purified water is essential.


Water, The Most Important

And Abundant Nutrient

Water is not only the most abundant nutrient found in the body (approximately two-thirds of a dog’s body weight); it is also by far the most important nutrient.

Water is responsible for and involved in nearly every body process, including digestion, absorption, circulation, and excretion. It is the primary transporter of nutrients throughout the body and is necessary for all building functions. Water helps maintain a normal body temperature and is essential for carrying waste material out of the body.


Vitally Important for Dogs

Pure water added to your animal’s food is vitally important to carnivores, because this is the most efficient way for their bodies to assimilate water. Canines in the wild do not usually have easy access to water all of the time, so they must count on the body fluids of their prey for hydration.

You will notice when you put your dogs on the raw food program that they will drink less water from their water bowl right from the first meal.

Pure water added to your dogs’ food is vitally important to carnivores, because this is the most efficient way for their bodies to assimilate water.


Problems Caused by Contaminated Water

Studies indicate many of our city water supplies are liberally laced with asbestos, pesticides, heavy metals like lead, cadmium, arsenic, nitrates, sodium and a variety of chemicals that are known carcinogens. Then additives like chlorine and fluoride with all the good intentions of the water departments causes another whole set of problems.

Is it any wonder our animals have arthritis, upper respiratory diseases, allergies, cancer, heart, liver and kidney disorders, urinary infections, poor teeth and gums, ear and eye infections and chronic skin problems?


Boiling Doesn’t Help—It Hinders

Boiling tap water only makes it worse because the purest water will be lost in the form of steam and any heavy metals or nitrates will be even more concentrated.

Even rainwater these days collects atmospheric pollutants as it descends. If you continue to give tap water, the contaminants in the water can defeat your other nutritional efforts.


Water Provides Oxygen

Purified water has a high degree of oxygen, which not only makes it healthier but makes it taste better as well. All drinking water and water used to prepare their food should be pure.

What About the Minerals

Purified or distilled water is fine drinking water. Some of the minerals have been taken out; however, sufficient minerals will be in their fresh food and foremost:



Bottled Water

Do not get your purified water from vending machines. Bacteria build up on the filters and the water is again contaminated. Otherwise they use chlorine to control the bacteria and you are back to chemically treated water. A reverse osmosis or Equinox unit or other purification systems in your home are presently the most effective and inexpensive way to provide purified water for your animals and you.

Even the purification units that attach to your faucet or the pitchers with filters are fine for purifying the water you use for your dogs.


Or you can buy bottled water in a food store or have it delivered, depending on the amount of water you consume.  However, be careful, because some of the bottled-water companies are adding chlorine as well.  Be sure to ask.



Chapter Twelve

How Much To Feed

Metabolism, Not Weight

Every puppy and every dog needs a different amount of food each time they eat, just as people do. It is how the body metabolizes the food that decides how much is necessary.

Commercial pet food companies who put on their labels the amount a certain size dog should eat each day is ludicrous. How much are you going to eat at your next meal? People aren’t even sure what they themselves are going to eat during any given day, so how can they possibly guess what amount of food their dog is going to eat?


How Many Cups of Food

Do You Feed Your Children?

No one prepares food based on how many pounds they weigh! Most people put more food on the table than is expected that everyone will eat and usually there are leftovers. That’s how it should be for your animals.



Adult dogs should be offered food once a day and allowed to eat all they want at that time. Each time you put the food down, put so much on the plate or in the bowl that they cannot possibly finish it. When they walk away with food in the bowl you know they have had all they want to eat.




When You First Start the Raw Food…

When you first change over, offer your dog the same volume of raw food as compared to the canned or dry food s/he has been used to eating. Just eyeball it to decide how much. Then, every day keep increasing a small amount of the raw food until finally your dog walks away with food in the bowl.

If your dog has been eating dry or canned foods, s/he may eat a huge amount of raw food at first to reach his/her nutrition satiation level or s/he may go to the other extreme and not eat at all, because the food smells foreign. Whichever the situation, be patient and understanding and in most cases your dogs will soon work things out for themselves. There is always the exception that refuses to eat.

For some animals, you may have to hand feed for a while or maybe mix the raw food with some canned food or with some dry food that has been soaked in water first. Never feed dry food dry. Dry food is the worst garbage that has ever been perpetrated upon our animals. Dry food destroys the kidneys, pancreas, and liver; causes gastric torsion (bloat), to name a few of the serious ailments. All this devastation is caused by 1) it is cooked; 2) it contains mostly grains; 3) it has only 2% moisture. All food must have water, blood, or some kind of fluid in order to be processed by the body.


Quality Not Quantity

This program of allowing them to eat as much as they want at each meal can only be used if you are feeding healthy raw food. This method with canned and dry food won’t work, because they never reach the point of being nutritionally satiated. I repeat: nutritionally satiated. Being stuffed full of junk food does not provide nutrients; it’s just empty calories. The body is not interested in quantity; it is interested in quality.


Fat Dogs Are Starving

Fat dogs are starving. (This is true of people as well.) In other words, because their bodies cannot reach their nutrition satiation point when eating commercial pet foods, they continue to eat, hoping that they will finally be satisfied, but they can’t be, so the struggle goes on, and they get fatter and fatter and eat more and more.


The “Lite” Diet

Finally you go to your vet or a pet nutrition “expert” at a pet store who says, “Feed him a ‘lite’ formula and give him one cup a day,” or whatever. Of course, your dog loses weight. S/he is being starved. What are they to do? They can’t open the refrigerator or the cupboard. They can’t tell you in people words the pain of suffering from starvation. All you see is that your dog is losing weight, and you think everything is okay. It is not! Dogs feel the pains of starvation and malnutrition just as much as people do.


Three reasons why dieting doesn’t work:

1) Starving your dog only works to lose weight while you are depriving your animal; as soon as you allow the dog to eat again the weight comes right back, only now the body takes on more weight to protect itself from starvation again;

2) Your dog will not be getting a complete and balanced diet on these so-called lite foods;

3) If there is a physical problem, for instance, diabetes, or if the thyroid gland is not working properly, you will only be making the problem worse during the time you are depriving the animal.

I just got a call from a person who had their overweight dog on one of the “lite” diets (prescribed by her vet) for a year, only to find out the dog had diabetes, for how long, no one knows.

You must give them healthy, raw food and let them eat all they want. They will lose weight while feeling comfortably full, and they will be getting all their nutrients as well.


Eating Right, Still Gaining Weight
If they continue to gain weight on our raw meat program that means:

1) One of their organs is not functionally properly, such as thyroid or pancreas;

2) Their acid/alkaline level is off;

3) You are encouraging them to eat because you think they need to eat every day.


I Can’t Get My Fat Dog to Eat!

It is amazing the number of people who come to me with obese dogs and say, “I can’t get him to eat.” “I have to add something he likes to his food to get him to eat.” Don’t encourage fat dogs to eat. If you put the raw food down and they aren’t interested, whisk it away till another day.


Wolves Don’t Eat Every Day

Healthy adult dogs don’t necessarily eat every day. If your overweight dog does not want to eat, do not encourage him/her!

Wolves and coyotes eat only once or twice a week in the wild.

Many dogs are fed every other day, and they do fine. However, on the day they eat, they are allowed to eat all they need…not necessarily all they want…but what they need.


Each Dog is Unique

Not only will each dog in your family eat a different amount, they will eat a different amount every day just like we do. No one eats the same amount of food each meal, each day. You can have two dogs that both weigh 50 pounds and one will be a big eater and one will hardly touch the food. It has much more to do with metabolism, age, general health, exercise, etc, than it does size. That is why it is important to let your dog decide how much.

If your are training your dog or working your dog, s/he will eat a different amount depending on the energy needed.

If you feed their favorites they will eat more just like we people do, so don’t feed favorites every day. Variety is vital.


Carnivores vs Omnivores

The main three differences between carnivores and omnivores are:

1) Carnivores have a more acidic system; their digestive juices are much more acidic, so they don’t have to worry about breaking down the food without chewing it before it gets into the stomach, and the acidic juices take care of salmonella and E coli.

2) Their small intestines are proportionately a third shorter than ours; therefore, the meat does not putrefy in the system. (A 150 pound person has approximately 30 feet of small intestine; a 150 pound dog has approximately 10 feet of small intestine.)

3) They have sharp, tearing teeth, while ours are flat, masticating teeth; they do very little chewing in comparison to people; just enough to be able to swallow the chunks.


Dogs Decide How Much

You decide what, where and when. Your dog decides how much. When I see and hear all the different scenarios of the eating habits of people’s dogs from my clients, I know that the dogs themselves must be the ones to decide how much.


Nobody is Portioning the Wolves’ Food

Let’s take another look at what Mother Nature does. Coyotes and wolves decide how much to eat on their own. Nobody is out there portioning their food. You never see a fat coyote or fat wolf. In fact, most people comment that they appear to be too thin. That’s because people are comparing their overweight companion dogs to the sleek and slender wild animal.


When To Feed

The body has its own clock: times to eat, sleep, cleanse, repair, heal, et cetera, so the best time to feed is between 7am and 9am or as close to that time as your schedule permits.

During the evening hours the body does its best sleeping, cleansing repairing and healing. The body cannot start these processes until digestion is completed.


Keep It Simple

Feeding your dog the natural way is easy and fun, especially when you realize the true benefits of raw food and organic supplements.



The key to nutrition for healthy, happy dogs is:

75% raw ground and/or chunk meat

25% raw ground or steamed vegetables and



Organic supplements are as close as you can get to what Mother Nature had in mind and now you have a complete and balanced meal. Both you and your dog will be happier, and maybe this program will inspire you to start eating better  and taking ESSENTIALS4ALL BIO-8-CAPSULES & CLO-3-PEARLS.



Chapter Thirteen


Never Use a Microwave

Never use a microwave for yourself, your children or your dogs, even to thaw out your meals, because it heats by vibrating molecules at 2.5 million times per second causing serious damage in the breaking up of the molecules, consequently, the body considers them foreign objects; therefore, the pancreas doesn’t even recognize the substance as food and does not know what enzymes to produce to digest these foods.

Microwaves have been known to cause anemia, high cholesterol levels, high radiation levels of light-emitting bacteria, and a major decline in lymphocytes, with the body responding as if the food were an infectious agent. Studies have shown that babies have died from consistently having their bottles and/or baby food warmed in a microwave.


Many commercial pet companies, veterinarians, and nutritionists are suggesting kelp, alfalfa, and sea meal as supplements that are to be added to a dog’s food every day. These supplements over stimulate the thyroid and the appetite. If you have a healthy dog, you don’t want to do either. Constantly stimulating the thyroid will cause shaking, nervous disorders, itching, and chewing on themselves. And you certainly don’t want to continuously stimulate the appetite so that your animal feels hungry all the time and becomes overweight.

I would advise staying completely away from both of these herbs under any circumstances, because I have not seen any of these supplements being beneficial even when a dog is hypothyroid or underweight.



No Junk Food

No canned/dry food, rawhide, pigs ears, plastic or nylon bones, pressed treats, freeze-dried food or treats, or dog biscuits.  Jan Naud 818-261-6963 has raw meat chunks and deer antlers that your dogs will enjoy for treats.


No Drugs, Chemicals or Poisons

No vaccines, frontline, advantix, program, heartgard, flagyl, rimadyl, antibiotics, steroids, antihistamines. The exception would be an extreme emergency…a life and death situation…where you must give anesthesia for surgery, steroids to breathe until you can find out what’s going on, etc, but there are very few times you will ever run into these types of emergencies.

Your dog never needs vaccines, frontline, advantix, program, heartgard, or any of the other drugs, chemicals and poisons that supposedly “protect” them from disease and/or parasites. These are the very poisons that cause the problems. There are natural solutions for every one of these.

Occasionally in a very desperate situation you may need to give an antibiotic. In the last 25 years I’ve used an antibiotic once for an inflammation that had to come down before we could operate. That’s what I mean by emergency and occasionally.


Instead of vaccines or antibiotics feed a raw food program.


Instead of any poisonous flea medications give MSM and ESSENTIALS4ALL BIO-8-POWDER & CLO-3-PEARLS.


Instead of heartgard give CoQ10. And there is CoQ10 already in the ESSENTIALS4ALL BIO-8-POWDER.





When you feed canned, dry, dead, cooked food or bone (cooked or raw) you put a burden on one of the most important organs in the body, the pancreas. If there are no enzymes to stimulate the digestive processes, the pancreas has to come into action and produce extra enzymes, burdening it with yet another job. It already has enough to do producing insulin and pancreatic enzymes.


Raw Meat Broth or Raw Egg Broth

If your dog is ill, possibly not eating well and/or dehydrated, add two tablespoons of raw ground meat to each cup of purified water for your dog and see if s/he will drink it. If your dog is too ill to drink this broth, strain it, and give just the liquid with a syringe.

This can also be done with a raw egg yolk (yellow only) mixed with a couple of ounces of water.

This raw broth may save you and your dog a trip to the veterinarian.

As a guideline, in a 24-hour period, your dog needs approximately 2-3 ounces of fluid per 10 pounds of body weight for a minimum amount of fluids to keep from being dehydrated.


If You See Any of the Following

Symptoms include: chronic ear infections; incessant licking of the genitals or the paws or both; lick granulomas; habitual scratching, usually the ears, sides of the torso and underbelly; rashes, most often on the underbelly; and when the symptoms begin to move into the head, loss of hear; loss of eyesight, loss of intelligence, memory, and comprehension.

The main cause if from cooked, canned, dry foods, grain-based foods, dairy, fruits, yeast, alfalfa, kelp, drugs, chemicals, poisons, including vaccines, advantix, program, frontline, antibiotics, steroids, anything that kills the friendly bacteria and enzymes in the body.

Vaccines compromise and destroy the natural immune system. Antibiotics kill the friendly bacteria which would ordinarily fight and overwhelm any infections within the body. All drugs, chemicals, and poisons are additional reasons for seeing such a preponderance of illness in dogs.

Usually these symptoms start somewhere in the digestive system; then move to the genital and reproductive areas; then to the ears, eyes, nose, and throat; then finally to the brain, taking over the entire body. It is insidious. Very often these problems are treated with antibiotics and/or steroids which only compound the ailments.

Rather than dwelling on what causes the problem, immediately you need to get your dog on raw meat, vegetables, and organic supplements to provide a healthy food program for him/her to be able to resist the breakdown of the immune system.

The next action to take is to find a classical homeopathic practitioner because your dog has given you all the signs of serious, deep, chronic health problems.

The key to nutrition for healthy, happy dogs is:

75% raw ground and/or chunk meat

25% raw ground or steamed vegetables and


Pat McKay Bio

Acknowledged pioneer and leader in the development of the raw and fresh food diet, animal nutritionist, classical homeopathic practitioner, counselor and author, Pat McKay is nationally recognized by animal health care professionals for her contribution to the raw food revolution for cats and dogs.


She has devoted over 30 years researching and completing thousands of case studies where her findings consistently reveal that a raw food program insures maximum health results from her animal clients.


Moving from the theoretical to the practical, McKay has spent the last 30 years synthesizing her findings to create a complete nutritional guide, which offers the most up-to-date clinical information and quick-step menus that make raw, fresh-food preparations both fun and easy.


In 2003 Pat McKay sold her business and retired. In 2008 Pat founded the Society for Animal Homeopathy, and started practicing homeopathy again.


Her present companions are Bogie, Belgium shepherd/Golden retriever, who is 21 years old…yes, an 88-pound dog who is 21 years old; Jacques, a black standard poodle, 14 years old; Dutch, a Dutch shepherd, who is 13 years old,  and Pat’s latest rescue:  Lena, a 7-year-old, dark chocolate mini Shar-pei.  All of her dogs are rescues.


Pat McKay is 76 years old, has no aches and pains, no ailments, follows the LIVE RIGHT 4 YOUR TYPE food program; takes absolutely no drugs of any kind, but does take ESSENTIALS4ALL BIO-8-CAPSULES & CLO-3-PEARLS.





provides email & phone nutrition consultations

at no charge.


Phone consultations:  775-313-5884

Hours:  7am to 6pm Monday – Saturday

9am to 6pm Sundays Pacific Time


There is no charge for nutrition consultations.


To place orders for supplements




or email Jeri Sylvestri



Copyright 2008  




This website is provided by funding through the Society for Animal Homeopathy.  We appreciate all donations.  Thank you.

To support our causes of nutrition and homeopathy for our beloved companion animals, please make checks payable to SfAH

Society for Animal Homeopathy

272 Lucille Drive

Walker Lake, NV 89415

or donate through


Copyright 2008